If you’ve spent any time in Leslieville, you’ve probably eaten at a spot owned by restauranteurs Eric Joyal and John Sinopoli.

In their quest to find a neighbourhood not yet over-saturated with restaurants, the pair firmly planted their flag in Leslieville in 2008 with the opening of Table 17, and have been a culinary force ever since.

They currently operate a number of businesses in the east end: Table 17 catering, their event and corporate catering arm, named after the aforementioned first restaurant in the hood, Hi-Lo bar in Riverside, Ascari Enoteca, a pasta and wine bar, and Gare de l’Est, a French brasserie.

With such deep roots in the neighbourhood, it only made sense for them to tap local chef Deron Engbers to take the reigns of Gare de l’Est in it’s second full year of operation. We sat down with Engbers to talk food, life, and Leslieville.

Spring Team: First off, can you tell us a little about yourself?

Deron Engbers: I’ve been cooking for about 28 years now. Raised in Edmonton, I started my career at Earls, and then moved into Hotels and fine dining restaurants from there. Since then I’ve worked in Vancouver, Tofino, California and Toronto. I moved to Toronto in 2002, and have worked in local kitchens ever since.

ST: You’re a classically French trained chef who has worked in some very un-french places in the past (Oyster Boy, Rock Lobster) – What does it mean to you to be able to return to your French roots at GDL?

DE: It’s an exciting challenge to return to a style of food that I love, after some other jobs that I’ve taken to focus on other parts of my career (ie: running multiple units). The food at GDL is so well established, and rooted in French cuisine, that stepping in here felt very comfortable and welcoming.

ST: Working for a well known Chef/Owner like John Sinopoli, how are you able to put your own stamp on the menu?

DE: I’ve been lucky to know John since 2005, and even more lucky to have worked on and off with him since 2013. John has an incredible knowledge of French cuisine, and we have a great understanding of how the other one approaches food. We work in a very collaborative manner, and I believe that benefits everyone, as it allows us to come up with the best dishes. In time, as I settle more into the role, I’ll find my own style coming through more, but I am really enjoying the chance to collaborate right now.

ST: How do you think the dining scene in the east end has changed over the last several years?

DE: I’ve lived in Leslieville since 2009, and It’s been amazing to watch the neighbourhood change. We’ve had some great restaurants with longevity settle in and be anchors, allowing smaller places to benefit from increased traffic, and awareness of the offerings on Queen St. East. While we’re not destination yet like Ossington, people are starting to think about the East End as a place with great food.

ST: We’ve had a few fairly high profile restaurant closures in the neighbourhood recently. What’s something you wished your customers knew about the business of running a restaurant?

DE: Every industry has it’s own unique challenges, and ours is certainly no exception. However, I feel what sets our industry apart, is that our love of hospitality, and of providing people with an unparalleled experience makes these challenges a pleasure to meet head on. The constant change in food, wine and service is what we look forward to, and what brings us to work every day.

ST: You live in Leslieville, what are a few of your favourite places for food/drinks when you’re off the clock?

DE: Man, it’s a long list. Obviously I’m biased, but Ascari for some truly great Italian. Descendant for the best pizza, GB Hand Pulled noodles is a welcome addition as well. We’ve got some great little bars in Farside, Hitch and Pinkertons, and some great cozy spots in Good Cheese, Boxcar Social and Goods and Provisions (or their sister restaurant The Comrade).

ST: Who most inspires you as a Chef, and why?

DE: I’d have to say Thomas Keller. While I’m not comparing my food to his in any way, shape or form, I was lucky enough to work at The French Laundry in 2000, and watching how he dealt with his staff, and his approach to food was a real honour. He embodies hospitality, grace, talent and everything great about our industry.

You can catch Chef Deron in GDL Brasserie’s open kitchen most nights, reserve your table here!

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DID YOU KNOW? A second Ascari Enoteca is opening in the west end.

Partners Erik Joyal and Chef John Sinopoli will be expanding their Ascari brand to the west end of Toronto, opening a second location at King and Portland. The new restaurant is anticipated to
open this spring and comes eight years after Ascari was originally opened at Queen and Caroline. After keeping a laser-like focus on the east end, this is the first time the partners head west of Yonge.

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